Check out the video of our climb: Rowan Trollope, Collin Davis and Beamer Hodge climb the U-notch
We made it to ~13,400 feet, about halfway up the U-notch couloir. After our fourth pitch of climbing, we had gotten past the crux of the climb and all of the somewhat difficult ice climbing, but heard the sounds of water rushing underneath the ice and a deep ominous crack from the ice. We decided to turn around, a decision made easier by the fact that we were quite tired.
Day 1 – 4am on Friday morning we met at our house and started our drive. By noon we got started on the approach hike at 7,900ft. Our first night was spent at ~10,000 ft at the scenic second lake above Glacier lodge.
Day 2 – 8am on Saturday morning we start up to our high camp at the base of the Glacier. We arrive in the mid morning and setup camp. ~12,000 ft. After lunch we ascend the glacier to the base of the couloir at ~13,000 ft. We cross numerous small crevasses, but nothing big enough to fall in.
Day 3 – 12am on Sunday morning (Saturday night). We start in darkness. It occurs to me that its 25 degrees in the middle of August in California. Strange. By 2am I lead out the first pitch crossing the Bergschrund on the small remaining snow bridge on the right. Half-way up I find an old fixed line left by a previous party, and clip to it to protect myself from a fall. Easy ice climbing follows where I place a single ice-screen and some rock pro.
Beamer leads out the next two pitches, which are mostly ice climbing on the hard, exposed blue ice. Beamer is a strong climber and that was his first true ice-climbing experience. Yay Beamer! By 6am we hear the aforementioned water and cracking and all decide it would be safer to turn around. A few rappels later we’re heading back to our high camp to get out of dodge.
After a LONG descent (it was 12 miles back to the car and maybe 4 hours of hiking), we arrive back at the trailhead, hungry and tired but really happy!
Congratulations to my partners Collin and Beamer who are totally rad newly minted alpine climbers!